A Namibia self drive safari should be experienced at least once in your lifetime. Spectacular open vistas make for a safari backdrop like no other.
Namibia, in southwest Africa is still a country off the well-trodden tourist travel route. Perfect for a road trip, it is a destination you will never forget.
From graceful sand dunes of Sossusvlei, Naukluft National Park, the abyss of Fish River Canyon, and Waterberg Plateau being some of the best places to visit in Namibia.
A safari to Namibia combines great game viewing, African Moringa trees in the plains and stunning forests, with the shimmering chalky-white Etosha Salt Pan.
What does your idea of a safari in Namibia look like? Watching a family of elephants hurry excitedly towards the water for a splash and lions lounging contentedly in the shade of a bush.
How about elegant giraffe crouching at a waterhole, handsome zebra nuzzling each other affectionately and a family of ostrich making their way across the white pan?
These images can be brought to life on a Namibia self drive safari, which is a fantastic adventure for first time safari goers in south Africa.
In this post we share our personal experience of a Namibia self-drive safari in Etosha National Park which we hope will inspire you.
NAMIBIA SELF DRIVE SAFARI EXPERIENCE IN ETOSHA
IDEAL ITINERARY FOR ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK
We would advise you spend a minimum of 3 days, out of your Namibia self drive itinerary, in Etosha. Plan your time efficiently, have early starts and you will cover a good portion of the park. You want to have ample time to sit at waterholes and watch animals without feeling rushed.
If we were planning our Namibia safari again, the itinerary would look something like the following:
- Day One – enter the park through the Galton Gate and explore the western side of Etosha. Stay at either Dolomite Camp or Olifantsrus Camp.
- Day Two – explore waterholes up to and around Okaukuejo, staying overnight at Okaukeujo Camp with its floodlit waterhole.
- Day Three – explore waterholes up to and around Halali and Namutoni. Spend the night at Namutoni Camp. Alternatively leave Etosha through Von Lindequist Gate in the east and stay in a luxury lodge just outside the park.
On arrival into Windhoek, the capital city, head north, stopping at Swakopmund en-route. After you have completed your Namibia safari drive, be sure to visit incredible Okonjima Nature Reserve, on your way back to Windhoek.
DAY ONE SPENT IN ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK
After checking in to our first Namibia wildlife safari accommodation, Etosha Safari Lodge located 10km from the Anderson Gate, we were eager to get our Namibia safari drive started.
As we drive towards Anderson Gate to start our Etosha adventure I realise that despite this being our first ever safari, I am embarking on this experience with no expectations whatsoever.
I have no wish list of animals I hope to see. I feel no urgency to spot 4 of the “big 5” animals that call Etosha home. And I definitely do not want to witness “a kill”.
I have done my research on Etosha National Park. I have studied which animals and birds I might see, and printed off an Etosha map showing the numerous waterholes and the driving distances between each one.
One thing I do have though, is excitement and anticipation in abundance.
We have a whole afternoon ahead of us. A glorious azure blue sky and the opportunity to explore more of Namibia’s epic landscape. And all from the comfort of our own vehicle.
I don’t know what to expect from this self drive safari in Namibia. Indeed what, if any wildlife we will be lucky to spot. But I feel thrilled to simply just be here.
Once we have been issued with our entry permit at the gate and made a note of the closing time, we start the 16 km drive to the nearest camp office at Okaukuejo, to pay the entrance fee and get our Namibia safari started.
However, 3 minutes into the drive along a tarmac road, we realise that our Etosha experience is already underway. And we very nearly missed it!
Off to the side of the road stands a lone giraffe, using its uniform height to browse the Acacia thickets. It is totally oblivious to our vehicle approaching. Looking more intently, it becomes obvious that there are in fact 3 giraffes all munching away at their own patch of trees.
We are barely over the excitement of seeing our first animal in the wild when we are met with the wonderful scene of a group of springbok shading from the heat of the sun under a tree.
Each one seems to be facing a slightly different direction from the other, ensuring that every angle is checked for potential danger, their pretty slender faces staring intently.
Reaching Okaukuejo Camp, we pay our entrance fees at the office in return for a park entrance document, purchase some water and snacks in the shop and we are eager to get started.
Passing through the gate feels like entering a different world, one full of anticipation yet totally dependent on nature and what it wishes to make you, a visitor privy to.
We have decided on a plan to maximise the number of waterholes we can drive around. We have considered the distance between each one and allowed plenty of time to sit and watch for animals.
This afternoon will concentrate on the popular waterholes surrounding Okaukuejo to the east, so we are not backtracking. We will however also have plenty of time to vacate the park through Anderson gate before closing time.
Entering the national park, set up as a way for visitors to self-drive in their own vehicle, we follow directions for our first waterhole, Olifantsbad.
The well-maintained gravel road throws up a trail of white dust in our wake and ahead of us, a kudu wanders slowly and in its own time, from one side of the road to another. It gives us a customary glance before it continues its journey.
Our visit, during the dry season, is the best time to experience Etosha. The lack of rain forces the wildlife to venture out into the open in search of essential water supplies at the numerous waterholes.
The low-lying shrubs and trees make it ideal for visitors to spot animals as they move around. Scanning the open desert landscape either side of the road for signs of wildlife, I don’t have to wait long.
I sit gazing at the beautiful giraffe in front of me, in all its perfect glory. Giraffes are totally underrated creatures.
They stand high like pillars, with their slender necks and cute faces. Their eyes are full of expression and those large ears so adorable.
We arrive at our first waterhole, Olifantsbad, and pull up in the parking area along with two other vehicles, the first ones we have seen so far in the park.
Their occupants appear to be gazing intently towards some trees, off to the side of the waterhole, so I take out the binoculars to get a better look.
Oh my god …. I can barely get my words out …. lying in the shade under the tree is not just one lion, but two lions! We cannot believe our luck.
I feel incredibly humbled by the sight in front of me. Nature in its rawest state, that leaves me in tears.
So many emotions are flooding through me at once. I feel incredibly moved, thrilled, and enraptured.
Witnessing animals in the wild has got to be an unparalleled sight.
Our eyes are drawn away from the lions and back to the waterhole, were there is activity going on.
Gazelles, Springbok and 4 Zebra all roam down to the water’s edge to drink, while 3 giraffes stand back, heads up, scanning the area for immediate danger.
There is a sense of method and order to the play. Each animal drinks then meanders away, intent on continuing its journey.
As the animals start withdrawing, our eyes are drawn back to the lions who have decided to get up from their place of rest. They are on the move.
Watching the scene is mesmerising and fascinating.
Moving slowly in the harsh heat of the day, they move meaningfully yet delicately towards to the waterhole and all eyes are on their progress.
They are in no rush; there is no need as they drink and sit totally oblivious to our excitement.
I could sit watching these majestic creatures for hours and feel honoured to have the opportunity and luck to have seen them at all.
That is the beauty of nature though.
In the fast-paced world we live in, where, for many of us, things we want are available when we want them, it is refreshing to strip back the veneer and be at the beck and call of nature.
There is no guarantee of animal sightings. If we are lucky enough to be in the right spot at the right time it is a gift.
We leave the incredible scene behind us and make our way along the gravel road to our next stop, Gemsbokvlakle Waterhole, hopeful of what we might find there.
This waterhole is a popular spot, and we are lucky to have arrived in time to witness a flurry of movement.
It is quite amazing to watch the routine.
Gemsbok, Springbok, Gazelles, and Zebra, all co-existing together for a mutual benefit …. water. They all seem to know their place in the scheme of things.
Two giraffes stand back observing the scene with their necks craned, eyes wide, looking into the distance for any sign of approaching danger.
They hold back until the others have started to retreat and then walk gingerly down to the water’s edge, never taking their eyes off the landscape.
Only when they feel it safe does their young join them.
Not fast runners, they are extremely vigilant especially when they are drinking.
There is an understated elegance to their gait, with their forelegs splayed and their knees bent. I feel a true affinity for these beautifully ornate creatures.
Time is starting to pass by quickly, so we decide to try another waterhole as we circle back to Okaukuejo Camp.
Again, we are incredibly lucky to stumble across a herd of zebra off to the side of the road.
Their incredible black and white striped coats are distinctive and unique to each zebra, like their own fingerprints.
One of them looks up at me and as I meet its gaze, I feel a complete sense of joy in the present moment.
And I find myself hoping fervently, that it stays safe, together with the rest of the herd, for a very long time.
Although we have no sightings at Aus Waterhole, we continue to pass by animals such as antelope and springbok crossing the dusty roads, as we head back to the camp.
We also spot some black-faced impala, with their distinctive black facial blaze. They are remarkably attractive and graceful creatures.
We head back to our accommodation, Etosha Safari Lodge, located outside the main gate, a stylish and well laid out lodge. The plan is to kick back and relax for the rest of the evening.
Our standard yet stylish twin room, is located on a hillock and is open-plan with an en-suite bathroom with inviting shower and a small veranda with great views across the open landscape.
We sit on the open deck overlooking a vast expanse of mopane woodland, watching a small herd of zebra clustered around the small waterhole.
With a glass of chilled wine in hand, I couldn’t feel any more content with life.
After such a rewarding and enchanting day, there is nothing left to do but watch the sun set slowly in all its glorious shades of red.
We dine under a star filled sky, before sleep beckons, with the anticipation of experiencing all the splendour of Etosha again tomorrow.
SELF-DRIVE SAFARI NAMIBIA – DAY TWO
Having slept soundly despite a thunderstorm, we are up and checked out by 7.00am and bound for Anderson Gate.
On the road between the gate and Okaukuejo Camp we spot a cheeky looking ground squirrel foraging for food, a Gemsbok with its beautiful black and white masked face, greyish-tan body, black tail and long horns and the piece de resistance …. our first elephants!
Unfortunately, the two adults and one baby were feeling shy and did not emerge from the protection of the undergrowth to have their picture taken.
However, it was a sighting nonetheless, and made us eager to get our day underway, excited by what we may be lucky to spot.
Today we were intent to visit the waterholes to the west and east of Halali Rest Camp and we began by heading to the Pan.
The colossal 5,000 square kilometre White Pan in the centre of Etosha, is where the park gets its name from, meaning “Great White Place”.
Sitting at the edge of the Pan is akin to looking into an ethereal eternity.
The seemingly never-ending chalky white pan, an abyss of nothingness, is eerily stunning.
Small mounds of clay and salt sprinkled across the pan attract animals who lick the natural salt. In the searing heat of the day, the white cracked mud shimmers like a mirage.
We drive towards the waterholes on the edges of the pan which attract all manner of wildlife.
Animals are on the move and appearing like a mirage on the horizon we spot four ostriches walking in line, one behind the other, moving with purpose.
Watching this movement from the vantage point of a thorny acacia tree sits a Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk with its bright orange beak.
Etosha accommodates 340 species of bird life, with the rainy season being the best time to spot the most variety.
A herd of wildebeest meander together, their dark form a stark contrast against the yellowish vegetation.
A Kori Bustard potters across the arid white chalky pan, intent in its mission.
This dramatic and surreal wild landscape is quite mesmerising and uniquely beautiful.
Re-joining the road, we continue to Kapupuhedi and Ondongab Waterholes, but both are dry and void of any visitors.
Back on the road we are met by about 12 springboks, uniformly scattered but ever vigilant.
Rounding a corner, we spot a lone wildebeest eating under the shade of a lone acacia tree whist the rest of the herd sit waiting for it on the opposite side of the road.
The whole sight feels surreal. Animals going about their business, totally oblivious to us watching them in their playground.
On the stretch of road between Ondongab and Sueda waterholes, through the haze of white dust, we spot the retreating figures of 4 elephants, unluckily too distant for a good photo opportunity.
Reaching Halali Restcamp we make a lunch stop and enjoy a buffet meal accompanied by a striking shiny blue starling with its shimmering iridescent plumage and piercing yellow eyes.
It hops up onto the table in search for crumbs, totally unfazed by our presence.
Rietfontein Waterhole, one of the best-known waterholes in the park, rewards us with a group of springboks who appear as a mirror image on the surface of the water.
One of them provides us with an elaborate jumping display which is comical and magical.
Wandering past them unimpressed is a red hartebeest while a small herd of zebras maintain equilibrium to the scene.
Standing high and vigilant, 3 giraffes wait in the close vicinity, in no rush to move forward to the water’s edge.
We decide to move on to Goas Waterhole and soon come to a halt while a herd of about 10 zebras cross the road in front of our vehicle.
The sight is incredible.
They don’t even appear to be aware of our existence, unfaltering in their movement from one side of the road to another, their contrasting black stripes a silhouette against the chalky white dusty road.
Truly magical!
This stretch of road towards Goas Waterhole reaps fantastic rewards, as we follow a herd of giraffes down the road, before they traverse the wide-open plains.
This is an epic sight of unparalleled grace, their bodies towering above the low-lying shrubs.
And then finally … we spot not one but three elephants!
Appearing like white ghosts out of the straw-coloured vegetation, they head towards us, spaced out but definitive in the direction they are heading.
It is a surreal sight.
Their leathery skin is stained white from the combination of white clay and calcite sand residue.
The sight of these gigantic and magnificent mammals walking towards us makes for superb wildlife viewing. This is what a self drive Namibia safari is all about.
Their ghostly appearance is bewitching, spellbinding and slightly hypnotic.
We follow their trail as they head off into the distance, smiles fixed on our faces.
We arrive at Goas Waterhole not expecting to see any activity after the great show on the road en-route, but nature has more magic in store for us today in the form of several giraffes and five zebras
It is fascinating watching a giraffe’s behaviour.
Such delicate looking creatures with their elongated neck and spindly legs, and it is quite a performance for them to lean over and reach the water.
Incredibly aware of the risk from predators, they take a long time to survey the area and assess the level of risk prior to beginning the awkward and challenging manoeuvre of splaying their front legs out on either side and bending their neck to drink.
One of them always seems to keep guard as once bent over they are at huge risk of being attacked from behind and it is another manoeuvre to get themselves upright again.
As it is now late afternoon, we decide to head straight to Namutoni Restcamp. We exit the park through Von Lindequist Gate and make our way to our accommodation for the next 2 nights, Onguma The Fort.
On the way there we are lucky to see another herd of zebra crossing the road, several giraffes, a warthog, and leopard turtle!
ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK ACCOMMODATION
Situated outside the main gate, Onguma The Fort has a classical African style with a touch of Moroccan detailing and views toward Etosha and Fisher’s Pan.
We have splashed out and are staying in the Sultan Suite, located in the main tower, and having a lounge area and private viewing deck.
The amenities in the room are sumptuous and the whole aura fitting for the end to a perfect day.
We sit on our deck and marvel at the raw beauty of the sun setting, the intense red and orange hues glowing the surrounding sky.
And then it’s time for a luxurious soak in the deep filled bath before enjoying dinner on the terrace overlooking the waterhole, accompanied by the delightful sounds of nature.
This has to be one of the BEST things to do in Namibia.
The end to an amazing incredible day.
Surrounded by beauty inside the park and the splendour of wilderness outside the park.
SELF DRIVE SAFARI – DAY THREE
After a wonderful deep sleep and delicious breakfast, we are ready for another exciting day in the park and set out to Von Lindequist Gate bright and early.
Along the track from the grounds of The Fort are some dainty, petite and utterly adorable looking Damara Dik-Dik.
This smallest antelope rarely reaches heights over 39cm and mate for life adding to their adorableness.
Their delightful slender face and large oval eyes with thick upper lashes are enchanting.
Passing through the gate we start the drive towards Namutoni Rest Camp and come to a halt behind a 4×4 vehicle parked up on the side of the road and whose front passenger is sitting out of the open window with camera in hand!
Ahead, at the edge of the road stands an elephant starring intently at us.
As we sit transfixed at the scene in front of us, a small car overtakes us and stops alongside the 4×4 vehicle.
As a patrol jeep passes from the camp it stops and asks the driver of the car to move back away from the elephant.
So what does the driver do? …. Pulls forward and stops opposite the elephant instead!
The poor elephant feeling boxed in starts backing up and soon disappears beyond the trees.
What happened to rule number one – animals have right of way!!
Driving past this scene we stop for snacks at Namutoni and continue to Twee Palms waterhole, so named after the two makalani fan palms growing alongside it.
Located right on the edge of Fischer’s Pan, the ground is arid and chalky, dotted with yellow low lying vegetation.
A lone Warthog, not the most attractive or graceful of animals sniffs around, followed closely by a jackal, lurking around hoping for any scraps.
There is a quiet understated beauty to this stark vista and a feeling of comfort from looking out over the expansive plains.
The whiteness of the pan stretches beyond the horizon and then our eyes are drawn back to the waterhole to watch the arrival of 4 zebras.
As they bend their heads to drink, they keep their eyes in an upward position, ever aware of the danger that might befall them.
Driving the 12 kms to Aroe Waterhole, we are surrounded by the dramatic salt pan on either side of the rough surfaced road and on arrival, we find ourselves alone at this dry meandering waterhole which only fills with water during the rainy season.
Moving on to Klein Okevi Waterhole we are not alone in our journey as in the distance, a herd of wildebeest are progressing across the open plain, an engaging sight to behold.
Many of the animals grazing around Fischer’s Pan visit this delightful waterhole to drink, but alas today, they are elsewhere.
However merely 8 kms away, we are met by the delightful sight of a group of giraffes at Groot Okevi Waterhole.
While one stood at the water’s edge, the others were craning their necks and munching away at the boughs of the nearby acacia trees.
Passing alongside a lone Gemsbok who stops in the road momentarily to stare at us, we continue to Koinachas Waterhole, named after the stand of rushes growing in the middle of the water.
This proves to be the perfect stage for a breathtaking performance.
Three elephants enter the water from the left-hand side while all other arrivals keep to the water’s edge on the right hand side.
The view is a marvel to watch and be privy to.
Each animal is mindful of its place and takes its turn to move to the water’s edge.
Springbok, Gemsbok, Kudu, Impala and Eland, all line up to drink alongside Zebra, each looking wary and on guard.
Sensing perhaps, the need to assert their authority on the scene at hand, the elephants complete a circular walk in the water as the other animals start to scatter in their wake.
They return to the job in hand as more animals appear on the horizon and two of the elephants decide to head but each other. Harmony is restored.
As the smaller game move on, they are replaced by a herd of zebra and so the show goes on!
It is impossible not to feel stirred and exhilarated by the scene unfolding in front of our eyes.
After returning to Onguma The Fort for a relaxing lunch, we return to the park in the afternoon to see if our luck returns, this time heading to Kalkheuwel Waterhole.
Our luck holds and we are able to get close to giraffe, gemsbok and some colourful birds of prey.
The chalky dusty road has left whitened trees in its wake providing a dramatic contrast to the blue/grey sky and dotted yellow savannah.
As we proceed to Chudob Waterhole the sky is turning a darker shade of grey and rain is imminent.
Two hyenas are at the waterhole, one in the water, the other curled up on the ridge.
As we sit watching, it becomes evident that the hyena has a kill next to it in the shallow water while a lone jackal stands hopeful of pickings on the water’s edge.
The sky darkens deeply and within minutes, a clap of thunder sends Guineafowl running, together with the jackal who has given up waiting for scraps.
Huge splashes of rain fall on the windscreen and the heavens throw down a torrent of water.
We watch the temperature gauge fall 17 degrees in 15 minutes as the wipers are fighting a losing battle.
Leaving the hyena to enjoy its kill, we leave, stopping briefly at Klein Namutoni waterhole as the skies have cleared and blue sky once again restored.
For a year between 1994 and 1995, this waterhole was the home to an albino impala male which must have been a captivating sight.
He has since moved on, but we are graced with 2 giraffes, bent over their spindly legs drinking from the water’s edge.
Our time in the park has come to an end and I feel a stab of sadness.
Etosha National Park has left me with an array of emotions.
I have felt moved, stirred, captivated, thrilled and mesmerised.
Most of all though, I have felt incredibly privileged.
To be able to access this wildlife playground and watch animals in their own natural habitat is to me, humbling, and an experience that I will always treasure.
HOLIDAYS TO NAMIBIA
Below are some common questions relating to Namibia self drive holidays.
IS IT SAFE TO SELF-DRIVE IN NAMIBIA?
Yes, self-driving in Namibia is safe and incredible fun. Driving in Namibia is really easy. Just follow the rules of the road, be aware of the gravel roads, and follow the tips in our guide.
WHAT DOES A NAMIBIA SAFARI COST?
That depends on several factors, including:
- The type of vehicle you rent.
- Whether you choose Namibia self catering accommodation, stay in luxury lodges or camp.
- Namibia Safaris are cheaper if you drive yourself independently. If you add on a Namibia lodge safari, these are relatively expensive in comparison.
WHAT IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT NAMIBIA FOR SAFARI?
For peak wildlife viewing, we suggest the months July to October.
NAMIBIA SELF DRIVE SAFARI WRAP-UP
There you have it, our personal experience through Etosha National Park. We hope you enjoyed this post and it has made you consider a self drive safari in Namibia yourself. If you are ready to start planning your own adventure, we have a full guide on how to easily plan your self drive Etosha Safari.
Have you visited Etosha, and if so what were your impressions? If you have any questions, please ask, we are here to help!
A Namibia Self Drive Safari in Etosha National Park is an adventure that you will never forget.
The beauty of seeing herds of elephant’s trek across wide open plains, giraffes chomping on vegetation by the side of the road, zebras congregating at waterholes, lions sleeping under the shade of a tree, or wildebeest appearing like a mirage on the horizon, is truly memorable.
No two days are the same, yet it is this unpredictability that makes the experience so special.
So come and visit, but don’t be surprised to find yourself wanting to return to this fascinating and dramatic national park. I know I do!
WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT NAMIBIA? READ THESE POSTS:
- How To Self Drive Namibia Confidently
- Unusual & Fun Things To Do In Namibia
- How to Visit Sossusvlei Namibia
- Treat Yourself To A Self Drive Etosha Safari In Namibia
- Climbing Big Daddy Dune
- The Best Places to Visit in Namibia
- Visiting Namibia: Everything You Need to Know
- Okonjima Nature Reserve
- How to Easily Plan your Road Trip to Namibia
And click here to find guides to other destinations.
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