SELF DRIVE ETOSHA SAFARI: EASILY PLAN AN EPIC ONE!

etosha national park wildlife

A Self Drive Etosha Safari invokes uncrowded roads, stark landscapes, effortless game viewing and glorious sunsets. However, good planning and organization are key to a rewarding safari.

Read on for our complete guide to Etosha National Park Namibia.


Sunrise heralds the start of a new day in Etosha park. An abundance of wildlife waiting to be spotted. Viewing involves a degree of chance and luck. However planning, and knowing where to look, can significantly increase your chances.

Let us show you how.

Etosha National Park is located in north-western Namibia in the stunningly desolate Kunene Region. Encompassing an area of 22,270 square kilometres and situated 435 km/270 miles north of Windhoek, Namibia’s capitol, it is a major attraction for visitors to this diverse country.

Driving in Namibia is uncomplicated and easy, making it an ideal way to explore the country. A self drive Etosha National Park safari is a fantastic game viewing experience.

But there are several factors to consider when you are planning your trip. Which Etosha National Park accommodation should you choose? Should you go camping in Etosha? How do you choose which waterhole to visit?

This complete and advanced guide provides all the information you need, to organise your own Etosha self drive safari, and how to substantially increase your chances of seeing 4 of the big 5, including endangered black rhino.



PLANNING YOUR SELF DRIVE ETOSHA SAFARI

 

When planning your trip through Etosha National Park, there are a few things to bear in mind, namely:

  • There are four gates from which to enter or exit the park.
  • With a speed limit in force within the park, distances between each camp needs to be taken into consideration. (see distance chart below)
  • Study the Etosha map and plan adequate time for getting around the park and stopping at waterholes for game viewing.
  • Know where the different camps are within the Park and plan your route logically.

distances in kms between camps in Etosha, Namibia
 

BASIC FACTS

Entry is through one of four gates, namely:

  • Anderson’s Gate on the southern end of the park.
  • Von Lindequist Gate on the eastern end of the park.
  • Galton Gate on the south-western end of the park.
  • King Nehale Lya Mpingana Gate on the northern end of the park.

Opening & Closing Gate Times:

Times are based on Sunrise and Sunset, changing weekly.

Entrance Fees:

  • Adults (foreign) is NAD 150-00 per adult per day
  • Vehicles with less than 10 seats are NAD 50-00 per vehicle per day
 

BRIEF HISTORY OF ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

 

European explorers Charles Andersson and Francis Galton discovered the Etosha salt pan in 1851, while visiting the area with Ovambo travellers.

Loosely translated as “Great White Place”, the pan was given the name Etosha.
Prolific hunting of game ensued, until the governor of German Southwest Africa, Dr Von Lindequist, declared Etosha a national game reserve in 1907.
When it was given National Park status in 1967, Etosha had considerably reduced in size due to various boundary reconfigurations.

Namibia’s Conservation efforts have resulted in a remarkable recovery of wildlife numbers and greater management of natural resources, forests and communities.

This is a country best witnessed first-hand to fully appreciate its diverse and dramatic scenery.

With the largest free-roaming population of black rhinos and cheetahs in the world, together with an ever increasing number of free-roaming lions, you can start to appreciate the allure of a Namibian safari.

Whilst not dense with vegetation, the beauty of the Park lies in the ability of visitors to sit at the numerous waterholes and wait for the animals to come to them.

What more could you want!


WHY CHOOSE AN ETOSHA SAFARI?

 

The beauty of Etosha is the way it was set up to be different from other safari experiences, with its aim being for visitors to drive themselves and explore its beauty independently.

HIGHLIGHTS:

  • Home to 114 species of mammals including black rhino
  • Haven for 340 species of birds
  • Easy road access for self-drive and accessible by ordinary cars
  • Camps with floodlit waterholes
  • Affordable safari experience
  • An Etosha salt pan that can be seen from space
  • Superb photographic opportunities

BEST TIME TO VISIT ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

etosha national park self drive safari
 

Etosha has two main seasons. The wet season runs from November to April, while the dry season runs from May to October.

The best time for a safari in Etosha National Park is during the dry season, with September and October offering optimal viewing. However, a visit during the rainy season also offers many great rewards.


During the dry winter season when water is scarce, animals are forced to rely on the water sources found at the many waterholes scattered around the park. This makes their behaviour and location easy to predict. Vegetation is less dense and the salt pan is bone dry making animals easier to spot. You are virtually guaranteed to see large herds of animals.


During the rainy season the landscape is greener and the vegetation higher, providing cover and camouflage for animals making them harder to spot. They have other water resources and no longer have to rely on the waterholes. Hundreds of migratory birds arrive alongside new-born animals.


DRY SEASON (May-October)

  • Virtually zero precipitation, mild climate and a dry dusty-white landscape. The Etosha Pan is a white endless shimmering expanse.
  • It is European holiday time, so immensely popular.
  • Peak visiting time, with accommodation at a premium (by anything from 20-40% rise on costs other times of the year)

TOP TIP: Begin booking your self drive Etosha safari accommodation at least 9-12 months in advance, as tour companies block-book a large number of accommodation.

 

WET SEASON (November-April)

  • High precipitation, with average daily temperatures 25C-35C, but can hit 40C.
  • Prolific birdlife, lush green vegetation and muddy roads.
  • Animals are widely spread throughout the park, with elephants migrating north of the salt pan and the main tourist route.
  • Young animals are born, and the salt pan becomes a shallow lake attracting flamingos.
  • Etosha accommodation is heavily discounted so you can stay at luxury lodges for a great price.

We visited Etosha in late October and rarely found more than 2 cars at any one waterhole.


HOW TO GET TO ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

 

Getting to Etosha National Park from within Namibia is very simple. Most international flights arrive into Windhoek, Namibia’s capital city.

The Park is accessed through one of four entrance/exit gates, namely Andersson Gate in the south, Galton Gate in the west, Namutoni Gate in the east and Nehale Gate in the north.

All gates open and close according to the sunrise and sunset times of every month.

How you arrive at Etosha will depend on where you are driving from and where you have chosen to stay, either inside or outside the park. These factors will determine the best gate to enter through.


MAP OF ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

map showing Etosha Pan and various waterholes
 

From Windhoek to the Southern Gate (Andersson gate) – 438 km: Take the B1 (tarmac road) then turn left onto the C38 at Otjiwarongo. Allow 5-6 hours.


From Windhoek to the Eastern Gate (Von Lindequist gate) – 533 km: Take the B1 past Otjiwarongo and Tsumeb. Turn left 73 km past Tsumeb and follow directions for the gate. Allow 5-6 hours.


HOW TO ENTER ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

 

The park is entered through one of four gates, the most popular ones being Andersson Gate and Von Lindequist Gate.

Andersson Gate in the south, was named after one of its founding explorers whilst Von Lindequist gate in the east was named after the governor of German Southwest Africa.

etosha national park self drive safari okaukuejo
 

Park Gates are only open from sunrise to sunset.

The precise opening and closing times are displayed on a post at the entrance gate. The times change weekly and are based on Sunrise and Sunset. Hence the summer months offer the widest window to enter and exit the park.

Outside of these strict times, visitors either must be staying at one of the camps inside the camp or have exited the gate and be outside the park.

etosha national park safari
 

Entry permits are issued at each gate and from here, you must drive to the nearest camp office, where you pay the daily entrance fee. After entry into the park, allow about 30 minutes to travel from the gate to the nearest camp office.

  • It is 16 km from Andersson Gate to the nearest camp at Okaukuejo.
  • It is 12 km from Von Lindequist Gate to the nearest camp at Namutoni.
  • All gates, reception offices, tourist shops and petrol stations open at sunrise and close at sunset.

ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK ENTRANCE FEES

 

When you enter the park, every visitor must show proof of identification, such as a passport or driver license. Etosha Park fees for foreign visitors, are N$150 per adult per day, and N$50 for the car per day.


TYPES OF WATERHOLES IN ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK NAMIBIA

etosha national park self drive safari
 

Etosha has over 40 unique waterholes, from natural springs and fountains to those fed by man-made bore holes. These are located on the map of Etosha.

One thing is for sure though, game viewing at waterholes is unmatched, especially during the dry season when they act as a magnet for animals needing to drink for survival.

They provide an essential water source, each one having its own identity and landscape. Whilst some are known for certain game sightings, the predictions can change from day to day and season to season.

It can still be a combination of patience and luck for which animals you will spot, but this is nature at the end of the day! Park in the pull-off area at the waterhole, turn off your engine and wait quietly for the animals to come to you.

During the rainy season, animals have sufficient water available throughout the rest of the park and there is less need to congregate at the waterholes.

In addition to these waterholes, Etosha has main camps within the park which offer floodlit waterholes for night-time viewing.

  1. Okaukuejo Camp Waterhole is renowned for sightings of black rhino and elephant.
  2. Halali Camp Waterhole is renowned for attracting leopard.
  3. Namutoni Camp Waterhole is great for bird watching.

BEST TIME OF DAY TO SPOT ETOSHA ANIMALS

etosha national park self drive safari
 

The best time for your Etosha self drive, is the early morning. We entered the gates at sunrise, and didn’t leave until the gates closed. Wildlife sightings at the waterholes can change hourly but some waterholes can be more predictable for certain animals.

Always keep your distance from animals, give them space to move freely and confidently. You are in their territory and should respect their comfort zone.

ANIMALS TO SEE WHEN YOU SELF DRIVE ETOSHA

Etosha is teeming with an abundance of game thanks to an admirable conservation policy and effort in recent years. An Etosha game drive is a fabulous way to view so many of these animals.

Etosha animals include several threatened and endangered species. Common species to hopefully spot during your Etosha safari as they converge early morning and dusk at the numerous waterholes, include:

etosha national park giraffe
 

Elephant, Zebra, Lion, Cheetah (rare), Caracal, Blue Wilderbeest, Red Hartebeest, Giraffe, Springbok, Gemsbok, Eland, Impala, Steenbo, Kudu, Warthog, Jackal, and Hyena.

Among the rarer species are White Rhino (recently introduced), Black Faced Impala, Damara dik-dik and the largest population of Black Rhino in the world.

The Park is not dense with vegetation, and as the waterholes attract large herds of animals, you just have to sit back in your vehicle and wait for their arrival.


WHERE CAN YOU SEE LIONS IN ETOSHA?

Lions will be on the move in the early morning, and found sitting in shade the rest of the day. However, some places to see them are:

Okondeka, Olifantsbad, Gemsbokvlakle, Homob, Rietfontein, Goas, Kalkheuwel, Chudob, Klein Namutoni, and Groot Okevi. You can also have a lucky sighting along the road to Dolomite Camp, past Ozonjuitji m’Bari and Sonderkop waterholes.


WHERE CAN YOU SEE LEOPARDS IN ETOSHA?

It can be very difficult to spot these shy animals and luck plays a huge part in sightings. Elusive leopards hide in the densely vegetated areas. Keep a look out at the following waterholes:

Halali, Goas, Kalkheuwel and Klein Namutoni (late afternoon). If you don’t have any luck spotting them on your drive safari, you can visit Okonjima Nature Reserve, and track them during your visit.


SPOTTING ELEPHANTS IN ETOSHA?

During the dry season, the chance of spotting elephants is quite high. However, in the rainy season, the elephants head north, so you may not see one. You will often see them crossing the open plains as you drive around, and at the following waterholes:

Okaukuejo (rest camp), Olifantsbad, Gemsbokvlakle, Homob, Rietfontein, Halali (rest camp), Goas, Kalkheuwel, and Klein Namutoni.


WHERE CAN YOU SEE CHEETAHS IN ETOSHA?

Cheetahs hunt during the day, like the cooler morning and evening weather, and love wide open plains. Hopefully you will spot them at the following waterholes:

Salvadora, Sueda, Charitsaub, Gemsbokvlakte, and Leeubron.


WHERE CAN YOU SEE RHINOS IN ETOSHA?

The iconic black rhino is endangered, and the three floodlit camp waterholes are probably the best place to see this wonderful animal.

Okaukuejo (best bet), Halali, Namutoni, and Gemsbokvlakle.


ANIMAL SIGHTINGS AT ETOSHA WATERHOLES

etosha national park self drive safari wildlife
 

Wildlife sightings at the waterholes can change hourly but some waterholes can be more predictable for certain animals. The following is a list of some of the main waterholes in the park and the animals you might spot:

  • OKONDEKA WATERHOLE (north of Okaukuejo) – Giraffe, seasonal birds, plus numerous other animals.
  • OKAUKUEJO WATERHOLE (right next to the Okaukeujo rest camp) – Elephants, and black rhino almost every night.
  • OLIFANTSBAD WATERHOLE (east of Okaukuejo) – almost all animals in the park especially , Giraffe, Zebra, Antelope, Kudu, Springbok, Red Hartebeest
  • GEMSBOKVLAKLE WATERHOLE (east of Okaukuejo) – Zebra, Springbok
  • HOMOB WATERHOLE (close to the edge of the pan) – Zebra, Springbok, Gemsbok, Wildebeest
  • SALVADORA AND SUEDA WATERHOLES (west of Halali) – stunning vistas of the pan, and also good spots for cheetah sightings.
  • CHARITSAUB WATERHOLE (west of Halali) – Red-necked falcon, Lanner Falcon, after rains you may see Zebra, Gemsbok, Springbok
  • HALALI WATERHOLE (at the rest camp and floodlit) – Giraffe, Plains Game (Zebra, Springbok, Gemsbok, Wildebeest), and Leopard.
  • ETOSHA PAN – magical and stunning landscape
  • GOAS WATERHOLE (east of Halali) – Excellent water resource for Leopard, Black-Faces Impala, Red Hartebeest, Zebra, Wildebeest, Eagle, Falcon, Springbok, Gemsbok.
  • KALKHEUWEL WATERHOLE (west of Namutoni) – This is great for photo taking as you can get very close to the animals which include , Giraffe, Gemsbok, Damara Dik-Dik, Eagle, Kite
  • CHUDOB WATERHOLE (about 7km from Namutoni Camp) – Eland, Giraffe, Black-Faced impala, Warthog
  • KLEIN NAMUTONI WATERHOLE (about 2-3km from Namutoni Camp) – Giraffe, Black-Faced Impala, Zebra, Hyena (late afternoon) and Damara Dik-Dik (in the bush as they don’t need water)
  • KOINACHAS WATERHOLE (close to Namutoni) – Most animal species
map of the West side of Etosha
Etosha Waterholes Map (West)
 
Etosha Road Map
Etosha Waterholes Map (East)
 

Remember that this is the animal’s territory, and they will come and go as THEY please, not to put on a performance for visitors, so be vigilant, patient and above all, just enjoy your surroundings!


ETOSHA PARK DRAMATIC LANDSCAPE

 

Covering almost a quarter of the park (4,760 square kilometres) is the vast barren, yet striking, Etosha Salt Pan.

etosha pan
 

This white chalky centrepiece, is the largest salt pan in Africa. Originally fed by the Kunene River in Angola, the saline pan is now an expansive depression of cracked white mineral salt residue, which few plants can tolerate.

Sitting at the edge of the pan, is akin to looking into an eerie yet seductive mirage, as the salt shimmers in the scorching heat of the sun.

During the rainy season the pan is briefly blessed with shallow pools of water which attract huge numbers of flamingos and pelicans.

In contrast, the rest of the park is savanna woodlands, generally wide flat terrain dotted with treeless plains, Mopane trees, large camel thorn trees, acacia and Terminalia trees.


HOW TO PLAN YOUR SELF DRIVE ETOSHA SAFARI

 

Now that you are well informed about the intricacies of the park it is time to start planning your Etosha National Park safari.
If this is your first safari, Etosha is a great choice, but the planning can seem like a time-consuming and stressful experience.

The following information will help guide you through the decisions to make during the planning stage of your safari.

This will ensure that you have a well thought out plan of action that will result in a memorable and well executed safari experience.


HOW MANY DAYS DO YOU NEED IN ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK?

 

This really depends on whether you are seeing Etosha as part of a trip around Namibia, how important a safari is to you and how long you can spare. Also, is this your first experience of Etosha or is it a return visit?

I recommend if possible a minimum stay of 3 nights to give you plenty of time to spot wildlife, take into account driving distances between waterholes and the chance to soak up the beauty that Etosha offers.

We stayed 3 nights and could have stayed longer time permitting.


ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK SELF DRIVE ITINERARY

With careful planning and consideration, you can cover a wide area of Etosha even if you only have a few days to spare. Print off a park map and try to explore the park in a coherent way so that you are not doubling back on yourself and wasting time.

It is important to take note of distances between gates and waterholes. Then you also must factor in stopping times at various waterholes and the closing times of the gate into/out of the park.

DAY 1 | DOLOMITE CAMP

Enter the Park through Galton Gate and work your way around the waterholes before spending the night at Dolomite Camp. Start your Etosha self drive safari in luxury, by booking a bush chalet (N$ 2620 to N$ 3650 per person sharing)

DAY 2 | OKAUKUEJO CAMP 

Work your way around the waterholes between Dolomite and the Anderson Gate, finishing up for the night at Okaukuejo Camp. Stay in a double room (N$1730 to N$ 2160 per person sharing). Enjoy the fantastic viewing at the floodlit waterhole.

Alternatively, if you want a bit more luxury, leave the Park through Anderson Gate and stay overnight at Gondwana Etosha Safari Lodge, which has it’s own small waterhole.

DAY 3 | NAMUTONI CAMP 

Spend the day exploring the eastern part of the park. The waterholes at both Namutoni and Halali are not as good as Okaukuejo, so you may be better enjoying the waterholes at one of the luxury lodges outside the Park gates.

Halali is good for Leopard sightings and Namutoni for Cheetah sightings. However, we saw a lion at our lodge, Onguma The Fort.

If you have an extra night, I would stay at Namutoni or Halali on the 3rd night, so you have more time to explore. Spend the 4th day exploring the eastern side of the Park, then leave Etosha through Von Lindequist Gate, for a night in a luxury lodge.

This route can be done vice-versa if you are entering the park from the East or North of Namibia.


ACCOMMODATION IN ETOSHA

 

As one of the most popular wildlife parks in South Africa, Etosha accommodation caters to all budgets. Which type of experience do you want from your Etosha National Park safari?

With animals quenching their thirst at the waterholes, you could sit at a rest camp all day, and still see zebra, lions, elephants and rhino.

If you stay at an Etosha camp, your accommodation will be basic. However, you will have access to a floodlit waterhole at night, and you won’t have to queue each morning to enter the park.

BOOKING ETOSHA ACCOMMODATION

Whichever Etosha accommodation type you choose, bookings must be made at least 9-12 months in advance, especially within the park as availability is limited and extremely popular.

If there is no availability at the camps inside the park, book accommodation outside the park that offers free cancellation. Keep checking the official site, as tour companies often cancel unfilled slots that they have booked in advance.

Here is our selection of accommodation located inside and outside the park.

CHOICE OF ACCOMMODATION INSIDE ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

 

There are six camps in Etosha National Park, all run by government-owned Namibian Wildlife Resorts. Three main camps, namely, Okaukuejo, Namutoni and Halali, connect the Andersson Gate in the south, with the Von Lindequist Gate in the east.

The key advantages of staying inside the park are being able to watch sunrise and sunset within the park at one of the floodlit waterholes and not be restricted by the opening and closing times of the park.

The floodlit waterholes make for incredible night time game viewing and this reason alone can make up for the less luxurious accommodation options.

All camps offer guided drives by a professional ranger during the morning, afternoon and evening. Basic and functional ccommodation is in double rooms, chalets, or chalets overlooking floodlit waterholes.

Camps are equipped with petrol stations, swimming pools, shops, restaurants and floodlit waterholes.

 

1. OKAUKUEJO CAMP

Located near Andersson Gate, the rooms are basic and functional. Stay in a standard room as the best viewing spot is at the waterhole, which is free for everyone (even if you are not staying here). At night the waterhole is floodlit, and a perfect place to see lion, elephant and rhino drinking side by side. 

In the Wet Season (Nov 2023-June 2024), a double room is N$ 1730 per person/per night. In the Dry Season (July 2024-Oct 2024), a double room is N$ 2160 per person/per night.

** Waterhole Chalet (2 beds) is N$ 2160 and N$ 3160 per person/per night for same times **

 

2. NAMUTONI CAMP

Located near Von Lindequist Gate, its close proximity to Fisher’s Pan makes it a great spot for bird watchers.

In the Wet Season (Nov 2023-June 2024), a double room is N$ 1670 per person/per night. In the Dry Season (July 2024-Oct 2024), a double room is N$ 2100 per person/per night.

 

3. HALALI CAMP

Located mid-way between Andersson and Von Lindequist Gates, the camp has a good floodlit waterhole popular with rhino, leopards and elephants, plus a large swimming pool.

The camp is centrally located and close to some of the most popular park’s waterholes.

In the Wet Season (Nov 2023-June 2024), a double room is N$ 1270 per person/per night. In the Dry Season (July 2024-Oc 2024t), a double room is N$ 1350 per person/per night.

 

4. DOLOMITE CAMP

Dolomite Camp has 20 luxuriously appointed eco style tents, which offer spectacular views and exclusive game viewing in the western part of the park, accessible through Dalton Gate.

These sit perched on a rocky hilltop with great views over the plains. Cool yourself in the ideally positioned swimming pool and wait for animals to appear at the numerous waterholes. Great place for bird watching and stargazing too.

In the Wet Season (Nov 2023-June 2024), a bush chalet is N$ 2620 per person/per night. In the Dry Season (July 2024-Oct 2024), a bush chalet is N$ 3650 per person/per night.

 

5. ONKOSHI CAMP

Onkoshi Camp is exclusive and offers 15 suites built on stilts and facing the iconic Etosha Pan. Running mainly on solar power and positioned in the remote north-eastern part of the park, this camp offers a totally different and exclusive experience.

Guests are picked up from Namutoni Camp, accessible through the Von Lindequist Gate

In the Wet Season (Nov 2023-June 2024), an Onkoshi Chalet is N$ 2620 per person/per night. In the Dry Season (July 2024-Oct 2024), an Onkoshi Chalet is N$ 3650 per person/per night.

 

6. OLIFANTSRUS CAMP

Last but not least, Etosha’s newest camp Olifantsrus, offers a camping only experience in the more remote and wilder section of the park.

Here, in the quiet of the bush, you can spot Black Rhino and the rare Black-Faced Impala if you are lucky.

The camp is positioned approximately 60kms from Galton Gate, 130kms from Okaukuejo Camp and 50kms from Dolomite Camp. There are 10 sites with a maximum group of 8 people per site.

Nov 2023 – Oct 2024 RateN$ 460 per person per night. Day visitors can enjoy the camp’s picturesque picnic facilities.


BEST CHOICE OF ACCOMMODATION OUTSIDE ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

 

If an Etosha safari campsite is not for you, there are some delightful Etosha lodges that will fit your needs. Accommodation in private lodges and game reserves can be found along the outside borders of the park and are popular for people wanting a higher level of comfort.

Etosha is extremely popular and accommodation in the camps gets booked up very quickly.

The key advantages of staying outside the park are a higher level of exclusivity and luxury accommodation options especially for the discerning visitor.

With higher standards of service offering 3-5-star rating, close proximity to the park, a wide choice of lodges offering a variety of price ranges and additional amenities, these lodges offer a sense of authenticity.

Many of the lodges offer fine dining, private game drives into the park and waterholes within their own reserves.

These lodges are extremely popular especially if you are staying longer in Etosha and prefer luxury combined with day trips into the park.

The key disadvantage of these private lodges is the fact that they are outside the park’s borders. This means that you are restricted to entering and leaving the park by the gate opening and closing times.

We stayed at the following lodges and can highly recommend them. They both have waterholes and we saw 2 lions at 5.30am one morning whilst staying at Onguma The Fort.

etosha accommodation
Etosha Safari Lodge
onguma the fort lodge
Onguma The Fort

TIP: If you are looking for luxury but are undecided about staying outside the park why not combine both options and split your time between staying inside the park and one of the lodges outside.


WESTERN ETOSHA LODGE OPTIONS (Near Andersson Gate)


EASTERN ETOSHA LODGE OPTIONS (Near Von Lindequist Gate)


ETOSHA PARK FACTS : RULES & GUIDELINES

 

You will be given a park entrance document on receipt of payment of your park fees.

Be sure to read the document carefully as failure to comply with any of the stipulated park regulations could result in either a fine or removal from the park.

Accommodation within the park is available from 12 pm on the day of arrival and must be vacated by 10 am on the day of departure.

  • No feeding of animals, littering or excessive noise is allowed.
  • No plants or wildlife can be removed from the park.
  • You must be silent around the waterholes.
  • All gates, reception offices, petrol stations and shops open at sunrise and close at sunset.
  • Gate opening and closing times must be strictly adhered to.

DRIVING IN ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

 

As Etosha was designed for self-drive visitors it is important to be aware of the traffic regulations within the park.

Whilst the park is accessible all year round for ordinary vehicles, if possible I recommend hiring a 4×4 vehicle for the benefit of air-conditioning, extra comfort and height advantage.

Also, during the rainy season, there can be a few roads only accessible with a 4×4.


To Comply with Park Regulations and for your own safety, abide by the following rules:

 
  • Wildlife always have the right of way.
  • You must hold a valid driver’s license to drive in the park.
  • ALL signs within the park are to be obeyed.
  • Do not exceed the speed limit of 60 km per hour within the park or the speed limit of 20 km per hour within the officially designated rest camp area. Accidents can and do occur.
  • No off-road driving is permitted. Keep to marked tourist roads.
  • Remain in your vehicle at all times when on a game drive, except at clearly designated areas such as picnic spots and toilets.
  • Do not lean out of vehicle doors, windows or sunroofs or climb on top of the bonnet or roof!
  • Keep a good distance from animals as this is their territory.
  • During the rainy season be sure to drive slower than the recommended speed limit.
  • Be mindful of other drivers especially at waterholes.
  • Always give animals plenty of room to cross the road and not feel in any way threatened.
  • Be quiet around all waterholes.
  • As animals use road signs as scratching posts and push them over, these have been replaced by painted cement blocks which indicate speed limits, directions and mileages between waterholes.

Find information about driving in Namibia, in our guide full of helpful tips..


AMENITIES AT REST CAMPS FOR VISITORS

 

The main camps at Okaukuejo, Halali and Namutoni are well equipped for visitors during the day and provide information, toilets, shops, petrol stations, and restaurants serving 3 buffet meals a day.

Besides providing a great place to stop and freshen up or walk around, they also have a visitor book where people can make a note of any animal sightings and popular waterholes to visit.

As these are the only places that you can get out of your vehicle I recommend at least stopping here once during the day specially to get out of the midday heat which is also when the animals will be resting.

Toilets/Rest Areas/Picnic Sites

  • Outside of the main camps you also have designated fenced off rest stops with a toilet facility, but these will be very basic and at least an hour’s drive between each one.
  • I suggest that you plan to stop at one of the main camps for toilets and main eating facilities. Just take some snacks and drinks in the car with you.
  • I personally didn’t stop at any of the rest stops so cannot comment but the following is a list of some of the designated toilet and picnic spots where you are permitted to get out of your vehicle. Expect them to be VERY basic!

WHERE TO FIND TOILETS

 
  • Andersson Gate
  • 1km east of Homob Waterhole
  • Olifantsbad Waterhole
  • Just east of the eastern end of Eland Drive (Halali Area)
  • 2 km east of Okerfontein Waterhole
  • Von Lindequist Gate
  • Southern edge of Andoni Plain (10 km south of King Nehale Gate)

PICNIC SPOTS CAN BE FOUND:

 
  • Etosha Lookout
  • Olifantsbad Waterhole
  • Near Springbokfontein Waterhole
  • Southern edge of Andoni Plain (10 km south of King Nehale Gate)

OTHER SIGHTS WORTH SEEING IN ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

 

There are a few notable sights within the park that are worth your attention as well as the abundant wildlife, birds, plants and iconic Etosha Pan.

1. FAIRY TALE FOREST

Located about 32 km west of Okaukuejo is a forest of Moringa trees, considered a tasty delicacy by elephants who uproot and ravish them. To protect the trees, they are fenced off as Etosha is the only place where the trees grow en-masse.

Covering an area of approx. 1 square kilometre, the trees grow up to 7 metres tall, with silvery grey bark, knobbly protrusions and have an upside down appearance which looks slightly eerie.

The San Bushmen believe the trees were thrown out of anger from heaven and landed upside down on earth!


2. HALALI STONE MEMORIAL

Located at the entrance to the office at Halali Camp, this stone memorial is in recognition of 6 officials who died when their light aircraft crashed in a residential area on the 1st of June 1982. The crash occurred during a game census and commemorates the lives of those lost.


3. NAMUTONI MEMORIAL

Located diagonally across from the Namutoni Camp office, this memorial commemorates the lives of 4 officials from the Department of Water Affairs whose helicopter crashed in the Andoni Plains in February 1985.


4. FORT NAMUTONI PLAQUE

Located at the entrance to Fort Namutoni, the plaque commemorates the 7 soldiers who bravely lost their lives defending the fort.


5. THIRSTLAND TREKKERS MEMORIAL

Located at the Rietfontein Waterhole is the grave of Mrs JEM Albert, buried in 1876 and epitomises the shattered dreams and lost lives of a group of trekkers who left Transvaal in search of prosperity and a new life.


TIPS & TRICKS FOR VISITING ETOSHA

 

If you have come to Etosha National Park, then you will be hoping for a truly unique experience.

Whether you hope to see lions stalking their prey or the elusive black rhino, you will want to see an abundance of game either drinking at waterholes or crossing the vast empty plains.

As most visitors only have a few days in the park but still want to come away with great photos and stories of animal sightings their time is valuable and often in short supply.

So how do you ensure the best game viewing in the park?

The following tips will help you get the best out of your self-drive safari experience:


1 – WAKE UP EARLY | Be prepared to wake up early. Sunrise is a magical time and also when the big cats are active. During the heat of the day they will most likely be resting in the shade. Be at the gate at sunrise to enter the park, or if you are staying at one of the camps take advantage and set off early towards the waterholes.

2 – USE A PARK MAP | Use a map to plan a route around the 40+ waterholes. Remember to take into account the travelling time between each waterhole, camp and entry/exit gates.

3 – KEEP EYES PEELED | Keep a lookout for nocturnal animals who are drinking after a night of hunting.

4 – BE PATIENT | Acknowledge the fact that animals are unpredictable. Sightings are often down to luck and being in the right place at the right time. You will not turn every corner and find a lion or rhino.

5 – DON’T JUST LOOK OUT FOR THE BIG FIVE | There are 114 animal species in the park, each worthy of a mention. Be open-minded in your approach. It is still exciting to spot smaller, more common animal species around the park.

6 – ALWAYS BE ON THE LOOKOUT | As you drive to waterholes watch out for zebra, blue wildebeest, red hartebeest and black-faced impala grazing on the vast etosha grassveld. Look out for giraffe munching on the acacias. It is common to see ostrich and herds of wildebeest crossing the open plains.

7 – STOP AT EACH CAMP | When you reach one of the main camps at Okaukuejo, Halali and Namutoni, be sure to stop at the office and read the “animal sightings book”.

These are filled in by visitors to record which animals they spotted and the location of the sightings. If there is a particular species that you have yet to come across then this can point you in the right direction.

Parks staff at each camp are always a great source of information and will be happy to help with guiding you to a particular waterhole or suggest where you might spot certain animals.

8 – LUCK IS A BIG FACTOR | However, we saw plenty of animals as we were driving along the roads between waterholes. We were lucky to see zebra, giraffe and elephants between the entrance gate and the rest camp so be vigilant.

9 – KNOW YOUR SEASONS | During the dry season animals can be found congregating around the numerous waterholes. Each one has its own characteristics and strengths.

  • Peak drinking times of 9am – 3pm will mean plains game will be active and hence predators will also be lurking in the vicinity.
  • During the rainy season you will have to drive around the park to spot animals as they cease to have to rely on drinking at waterholes.

10 – SPOT TELL-TALE SIGNS |

  • If you see giraffe near a waterhole watch them closely as they are often the first to spot lions. They use their height to scan the landscape and it is usually obvious if they are keeping their attention on somewhere in the distance, indicating the approach of predators.
  • Antelope are also avid watchers for evidence of danger. Watch their behavior which is often an indication of imminent danger.
  • Circling vultures indicate a carcass close by and they will wait for some pickings.
  • A few vehicles stopped at a waterhole could indicate sightings so stop and keep a close watch especially of people taking photos. If, however, there are too many vehicles around a waterhole, wildlife may be put off approaching and shy away.
  • Similarly, a group of vehicles stopped by the roadside usually means a group of elephants, giraffe or zebra nearby.

11 – ETIQUETTE AT WATERHOLES | Pull up into the parking area at each waterhole, turn off your engine and sit and wait. Keep your eyes open, look around you and be patient. Scan the area around the waterhole for animals grazing nearby or approaching for water.

Sit at a waterhole for at least 30 minutes and give the animals chance to come to you. Don’t rush from one waterhole to another impatiently.

Stop at the waterholes at the main camps which see an abundance of wildlife. Unless you are staying at a camp make sure you leave in time for the gate closing time to vacate the park.

12 – EXTREMELY IMPORTANT | Use a telephoto zoom lens. You will not get great shots otherwise. Don’t say you weren’t warned! 🙂


WHAT TO PACK FOR ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK

 

There is not a one-size-fits-all when it comes to packing lists as things vary depending on your type of accommodation and the time of year you are visiting along with personal preference.

The list below is therefore meant to be used as a general guide, but as always, go with what you have and make sure you are comfortable as this is your holiday after all.

  • Sun Block, Sun Lotion, Sun Hat and Sunglasses (plus a spare pair if possible)
  • Basic first aid kit including painkillers, diarrhoea medication, personal prescriptive medication, dehydration sachets, mosquito repellent (with DEET), car sickness tablets, anti-malaria tablets (if required), lip salve, moisturising lotion.
  • Binoculars (a pair each if you are both likely to want to use them)
  • Swimwear and a quick drying towel
  • Guidebook, Torch, Map and GPS
  • Comfortable lightweight clothing that you can wear in layers. There is no need to buy anything special as your normal clothes will probably suffice. The climate will mean hot days and cool nights hence a pair of long trousers, some long sleeved tops and a fleece or jacket for the evenings. Even at the luxury lodges people don’t tend to get dressed up so keep things simple and make sure whatever you wear is comfortable and you will be fine.
  • Comfortable walking shoes and closed sandals
  • Camera (Mobile phone will not zoom in close enough) A digital SLR with at least 2 lenses will ensure flexibility. You will ideally want a telephoto zoom lens of 200 mm if not higher, if you hope to get great photographs. Tripod for use at camp waterholes
  • Battery Charger and USB cable to download photos, Memory Cards and Batteries (You will take LOADS of photos I promise)
  • Mobile phone, charger and adapter
  • Plenty of water and snacks
  • Contact number of NWR in case of breakdown or need for assistance Great music to listen to!

SELF DRIVE ETOSHA SAFARI CONCLUSION

 

For many of us, a safari really is a “holiday of a lifetime” and hopefully a truly enjoyable and unforgettable experience filled with incredible memories that we will recount for many years.

You may dream of witnessing herds of game trekking across the open plains against the beautiful backdrop of Etosha Pan, seeing lions lazing in the shade of a tree out of the heat of the sun or spotting the elusive black rhino.

Hopefully you now have all the information you need to plan your own independent Etosha National Park Self-Drive Safari.

Can I suggest finally, that you let go of any expectations, relax and enjoy the stunning surroundings of the park, the diverse landscape and take pleasure from the small simple things around you.

Soak up the atmosphere, the scenery, the ability to drive yourself around the park and the privilege of sharing the space and home of 114 species of animals and 340 species of birds!
Etosha National Park is truly a magical place.


MORE POSTS ON NAMIBIA

We absolutely loved Namibia, the amazing scenery, epic sand dunes, diverse wildlife and friendly locals. Carry on reading more about Namibia with these posts:

You can check out other destinations here.


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