The coastal village of Portmeirion sits invitingly on a private peninsular in Wales. Uncover lush sprawling grounds, stunning coastal scenery, elaborate styled pastel hued buildings and a tiny slice of Italy.
DISCOVERING PORTMEIRION VILLAGE IN NORTH WALES, UK
There is a distinct Mediterranean feel about Portmeirion. Aided by swaying trees and picture-perfect pastel-coloured villas, the village feels from another world.
Whether you visit on a day trip or stay in one of the cottages or hotels, you can expect a one-off experience at this miniature fantasy village.
HISTORY OF PORTMEIRION COASTAL VILLAGE
British architect Clough Williams-Ellis, purchased Abersite Iâ estate near Penrhyndeudraeth in 1925, for around £5,000. With steep cliffs, a slew of old buildings, and an enviable position overlooking a stunning sandy estuary, the site was perfect.
With a clear vision conceived years earlier, Clough built the village in two stages. He renamed the site “Portmeirion” for it’s coastal location and the county in which it lay.
His dream was to use fine architecture to enhance and develop, not defile the stunning natural landscape. A tireless campaigner for the environment and advocate of rural preservation, natural beauty was paramount.
Clough designed and built most buildings himself using an eco-friendly approach. He gave fallen buildings from demolition sites a new home, incorporating them into the overall design.
During Phase One (1925 – 1939), the site was pegged-out and distinctive buildings completed. During Phase Two (1954 – 1976) building styles were typically Palladian or Classical, and the rest of the village was constructed.
By 1976, the once neglected wilderness was transformed, and Clough was in his nineties.
The result is an eclectic and quirky mix of styles. From Arts & Crafts to Light Classical and Baroque. Collections of statues, stained glass windows, porticoes, loggias, nautical bells, turrets and columns.
The extensive grounds feature lawns, ponds, follies, rare flowers, exotic trees and sculptures.
Pastel coloured buildings surround a grand central Mediterranean styled piazza. The tightly grouped village features two stylish hotels and 13 historic self-contained cottages. Iconic architectural buildings are home to cafes, restaurants and shops.
Today, Portmeirion is one of Wales’ most popular tourist destinations. The following is a taste of what you can expect to see and experience on your visit.
PAY YOUR DUES AT THE TOLLGATE
The pink washed twin Palladian tollbooths provide visitors with a colourful entrance to the village. Built twenty years apart, the right hand booth was Clough’s last building before his death in 1976.
In the 1950’s, you would have rung a bell for the gatekeeper in Battery Square. The admission charge goes directly to the upkeep of both village and grounds.
MAKE A GRAND ENTRANCE THROUGH THE GATE HOUSE
The Gate House straddles the open driveway after the tollgate, providing a warm welcome to the village. Rugged rock formations provide a shoulder to lean on, as the structure protrudes from the existing terrain.
The deep arch ceiling mural by Hans Feibusch, is playful and endearing. Well worth a close inspection, it is floodlit at night and takes on an ethereal feel. (The Gate House is a self-catering cottage)
Passing under the arches, you emerge into brightness, colour and space.
STRIKING PANORAMIC VIEWS FROM THE LOOKOUT
Leaving the Gate House, pass through the slate archway and descend the stone steps. Below Cliff House Cottage is the Grade II listed cliff top Rotunda, erected in 1954.
The view across the Dwyryd Estuary from the lookout platform is marvelous. Plus the added bonus of your first sighting of Portmeirion Hotel, situated along the shoreline.
Hiding under the Rotunda is a quaint grotto, it’s ceiling and walls inlaid with a profusion of local shells. You will see numerous nautical references as you explore the village.
AN EXPLOSION OF COLOUR IN BATTERY SQUARE
The tree-lined path continues, passing under Grade II listed Bridge House, the second village entrance gateway. The orange washed building, rises from exposed brick arches, from the existing rock terrain on either side of the road.
As was Clough’s intention, you emerge under the archway into a profusion of colour. Pastel hues of blue, yellow, purple, orange, pink and more, envelop your senses.
Some may find the colours a tad brash, but it is easy to see Clough’s vision and sense of purpose here. Make a stop at Caffi’r Sgwar, for takeaway coffee and warmed welsh cakes, a tasty welsh delicacy.
Find a spot in the sun, and admire the Toll House opposite, presided over by a statue of Saint Peter, shielded under a canopy.
The sheep cut-out embellishment was designed by one of Clough’s two daughters. Susan Williams-Ellis painted several murals for the village and is the designer of the famous Portmeirion Pottery.
Below, sitting dignified on a white pedestal, is a bust of Patrick McGoohan, star of the television series “The Prisoner”. Set in various village locations, it put Portmeirion firmly on the map.
Meander the many pathways to explore this part of the village. Many of the brightly coloured cottages can be booked for overnight stays, each with it’s own quirky story.
The impressive Grade II listed Bell Tower, built in 1928 was an integral part of the village plan. Clough was inspired by the buildings in Portofino, Italy and wanted a similar feel and presence.
His immaculate and precise half-inch drawing was followed entirely. This was a man of clear vision. The adjoining yellow Government House, has hipped roofs of pantiles.
As you wander around the paths, keep an eye out for Watch House, The Dolphin, The Round House and Lady’s Lodge. Packed full of intricate detail such as scrolls, statues, columns and archways.
The magnificent Pantheon, is surmounted by a green dome and central octagonal cupola. The gothic porch, used to be a minstrels’ gallery in a former life.
THE HEART OF THE VILLAGE IN THE CENTRAL PIAZZA
From the main road, take the doorway leading to the Gloriette for fantastic balcony views over the Piazza.
Descend stone steps to the Central Piazza, and the true heart of Portmeirion village. It is hard to believe, this glorious space was once an ugly unsightly tennis court. Original building plans were put aside. However, encouraged by Clough’s daughter Susan, this central Piazza was finally created in the 1960’s.
A masterpiece in design, features include a fountain pool, Gothic Pavilion, Gloriette, and giant chess board. Finishing off the look are gilded Burmese dancing figures, atop Ionic columns.
Sit on a bench and take in the 360 degree view. It is not just the pastel colour scheme and precise planting, but the intricate details that are everywhere you cast your eyes.
Of particular note is the Bristol Colonnade, originally built circa 1760 in front of a bathhouse at Arnos Court in Bristol. Having fallen into decay following bomb damage during WWII, Clough saved it from demolition.
Around 100 tonnes of extremely fragile stonework was carefully numbered, transported and pieced back together.
Brick by brick, it was transported 200 miles by road to Portmeirion, another “fallen building” given a new lease of life.
If you look carefully at the left Colonnade, you will spot a sketch portrait of Clough. This was to replace one missing piece of the jigsaw, discovered when the stonework was off-loaded.
Be sure to look out for the burnt orange exterior of the Bandstand, at the top of Hercules steps.
At the top of the steps, is a large statue of Hercules, which Clough acquired in 1960 from Aberdeen. He transported the statue back to Portmeirion, in the back of a pick up truck!
A GRADE II LISTED HOTEL AND SCENIC QUAYSIDE
After exploring the village, a stroll along the quayside takes you past the iconic Portmeirion Hotel. With incredible views across Dwyryd Estuary and access at low tide, to glorious white sands, it holds an enviable position.
In 1926, Clough purchased a Porthmadog trading ketch, and moored the 70 ton houseboat alongside the quay. A sudden gale however, took her out to the island and she was stranded, beyond repair.
Clough used his ingenuity to salvage what he could and reconstructed her, namely Amis Ruenis, as a stone ship-aground. She makes a nice addition to the pretty quayside.
Exploring the sandy beach, uncovers hidden gullies and caves. Always check the high-tide times, displayed on your admission ticket.
Follow the coastal path to the Observatory Tower, toward the end of the peninsula.
If you continue further along the path, you will reach a quaint folly lighthouse, marking Portmeirion’s southernmost point.
EXPLORE THE HIDDEN TREASURES OF GWYLLT WOODLANDS
The 70 acres of Woodlands offer 19 miles of pathways to be explored. Discover forests, a Chinese bridge, lily-covered lakes, pagodas and much more. Due to the low lying sheltered position, the village enjoys a mild year-round climate.
This makes Portmeirion a haven for plant life. Spot monkey puzzle trees, magnolias, giant redwoods and 70 species of rhododendron on your walk.
Particular things to look out for, are the New Zealand dancing tree, Dog Cemetery, Tangle Wood, Ghost Garden and classic temple.
The trails are well marked, and the change of seasons add colour and texture whichever month you visit.
ACCOMMODATION AND FACILITIES AT PORTMEIRION, WALES
Watch the sun rise over the mountains of Meirionnydd and experience the peace of Portmeirion with an overnight stay. There are several options, which include:
PORTMEIRION HOTEL
Overlooking the Dwyryd Estuary and sandy beaches, this 4-Star Hotel first opened its doors in 1926. Offering 14 stylish bedrooms, relaxing lounges, bar with terrace and a fine-dining restaurant, it enjoys a great setting.
Look out for the grand 18th century oak staircase, walnut paneled rooms and detailed Italian fireplace. With an open air swimming pool on the lawn, this hotel ticks a lot of boxes.
CASTELL DEUDRAETH
This 4-star contemporary hotel, in a Victorian folly, sits in the grounds of Portmeiron. Enjoy a stay in one of 11 spacious and contemporary rooms and suites. The interiors are predominantly Welsh oak, slate and stone with underfloor heating throughout, and there is a delightful Victorian walled garden.
SELF CATERING COTTAGES
Why not stay in one of 13 individually styled Self-Catering Cottages in the village itself? Fully equipped, individual and with their own unique history, these are a great accommodation option. Each one is available to book for a 3-night weekend break (Friday – Sunday), a 4-night mid-week break (Monday – Thursday) or a 7-night week long break (arriving either on a Friday or a Monday). Enjoy free entry into the Village and Gardens, and use of the heated outdoor swimming pool.
You will be spoiled for choice when it comes to dining options at Portmeirion. Enjoy a terrace lunch or afternoon tea in Portmeirion Hotel. Or for a Sunday roast, book into the restaurant lounge.
If you are looking for lighter fare, the Town Hall, Caffi’r Sgwar and Caffi’r Angel are great options to try. An after lunch free entry voucher is included with pre-booked two course lunches and Sunday lunch at the Castell Deudraeth.
HOW TO GET TO PORTMEIRION VILLAGE
Portmeirion is 1.5 miles West of Penrhyndeudraeth on the A487 signposted at Minffordd. You’ll find all the essential information you’ll need ahead of your visit, on the official website.
The village is approximately 2 hours drive from the cities of Chester and Liverpool. Get up to date opening times and admission costs for your visit to Portmeirion, including parking details and on-site facilities.
WHERE TO NEXT?
Wales is a beautiful part of the country, and one of the best ways to go exploring, is on a road trip. You may enjoy our road trip around the Brecon Beacons, or how about driving through Snowdonia National Park.
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